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KASHAN
Located
in an altitude of 1,600 m above sea level, Kashan is one of the main
cities of Esfahan province. It is 240 km to the south of Tehran and
220 km to the north of Esfahan, and can be reached via a first-class
highway, national road, or railway. The town’s population amounts
to 400,000, living on an area of 2, 100 hectares.
In addition
to its world-famous carpets, Kashan is also well known for its silk
and the glazed earthenware tile called kashi after its place of manufacture.
Kashan is a beautiful large oasis town on the Qum-Kerman road running
along the western edge of the Great Desert, Kevir. The city has long
been noted for its silk textiles, ceramics, copperware, and rose water
from the well-known rose fields of Qamsar, as well.
One
of the most important archaeological sites in central Iran, it has
a historical background of over 7,000 years. Kashan is also of interest
for its connections with Shah Abbas I – it was a favourite town
of his, and he beautified it and asked to be buried here in the mausoleum
of a 13th century ancestor. Walking in the silent and peaceful alleys
and back-alleys of the town, one can see very old buildings with brick
walls constantly baked, as in old times, under the scorching sun.
Majority
of historians and travelers to the town have called it a gate to the
world civilization. Kashan flourished mainly during the Seljuk and
Safavid periods of the post-Islamic history of Iran. Samples of art
works created by Kashani artisans can be seen in the famous museums
of the world.
The
town has many picturesque badgirs (wind towers), essential in the
town’s hot and airless summers before the introduction of air-conditioning.
Modern industry plays a part in Kashan, in parallel with the ongoing
social development. In bazaar, however, carpet-weaving, embroidery
work, the making of rose water, scent, pottery, and other crafts are
carried on in much the same and with the same skill as of old.
Historic
Sights
Agha
Bozurg Mosque
The
Agha Bozurg Mosque and School Complex in Fazel-e Naraghi Street, belong
to the second half of the last century (Qajar period), when the country’s
architects produced a number of unforgettable masterpieces. The Complex,
considered as one of the most beautiful and magnificent Islamic monuments
of Iran, was constructed by Haj Mohammad Taghi Khanban for congregational
prayers, preaching and teaching sessions held by Mulla Mahdi Naraghi
II known as Agha Bozurg. The vast sanctuary of the mosque is in two
floors. The first floor, being at the same level with the pool and
area allocated to the school garden, houses 12 cells on three sides,
and the mosque appears at the top floor. The mosque has a beautiful
portal decorated with moqarnas and paintings by Master Mohammad Bagher
Qamsari, brick dome and two minarets covered with mosaic tiles seen
from two sides of the dome. In plan, the Mosque has three sanctuaries
(shabestans). The whole Complex is built of brick and decorated with
inscriptions and tile works. The Complex has been repaired several
times, and nowadays it stands as one of the sturdy and well-maintained
monuments of the city. It is open to visitors every day from 8 AM
to 6 PM.
To the
north of the Complex and within a few meters, stands a beautiful building
with two brick domes, which is known as the Shrine of Khajeh Taj od-Din.
Here are buried sons of two Imams, called Shahzadeh Is’haq and
Shahzadeh Abitaleb, both relatives of the seventh Imam. Early remains
of the Shrine belong to the Seljuk period, and its ceiling was built
during the reign of Mongols.
Bazaar
and Other Sites
One
of the most fascinating sightseeing places in Kashan is the bazaar
historic complex (first erected in the Safavid era, but rebuilt in
its present form early in the nineteenth century) with many interesting
buildings in it, such as Saraye Amin od-Dowleh, caravansaries (Gomork,
Now, Mirpanj, Borujerdiha, and Zoghaliha, nearly 1,100 years old),
mosques (Mir Emad, Bala Bazaar, Tabriziha, and Kaffash’ha),
baths (Khan and Gozar Now), water storages (Haj Seyed Hossein), and
smaller bazaars (copper smiths, gold smiths, dyers, Gozar Now, Pa
Nakhl, Qaisarieh, Mianchal, Malek, and Sardar) for the sale of hand-woven
carpets of silk and velvet, local perfumes (golab) and sweets. Among
other sites of historic interest in and outside Kashan, mention could
be made of Mausoleum, of Abu Lo’ Lo’, from Safavid period,
at the beginning of Kashan-Fin road; the Jalali Fortication Complex
surrounding the town (city walls), from the eleventh century, at the
end of Alavi Street; Minar-e Zain od-Din (late eleventh or early twelfth
century) in Mulla Habibollah Sharif Street (Darvazeh Esfahan); Ghazi
Historical Complex, from Seljuk and Safavid periods, 10 km to the
northwest of Kashan; Maranjab Caravansary, built by Shah Abbas I,
50 km to the north of Aran (in Kevir); Imamzadeh Hadi Shrin in Bidgol,
from Safavid period, 8 km to the northeast of Kashan; Nushabad Jam’e
Mosque, with a brick minaret of Safavid period, in Nushabad, 12 km
to the north of Kashan; Niasar Sassanian Fire Temple from the early
Islamic period (7th and 8th centuries) in Niasar village, 25 km to
the northwest of Kashan; and many other old houses, shrines, mosques,
and baths, about which you can find out at Kashan.
Borujerdis
Old House
The
present premises of Kashan Cultural Heritage Department, the Borujerdis
Old House was built nearly 130 years ago by a famous merchant named
Haj Seyed Ja’far Borujerdi from Natanz, who imported goods from
Borujerd in Lurestan Province. The construction date (1293 A.H.) can
still be seen on the covered inscription of the building, completion
of which required 18 years of work by tens of laborers, master painters
and architects. A vast rectangular courtyard is opened up to the visitor
after passing an entrance portico and a narrow corridor. Reception,
ceremonial, and residential halls and rooms are arranged on the four
sides of the courtyard. Provision of well-proportioned spaces, nicely-designed
bad-girs (wind towers) to fit the building, particularly paintings
by the famous Iranian painter Kamal ol-Molk Ghaffari, have served
to convert it to an art masterpiece in itself. The House is located
in Alavi street, Sultan Amir Ahmad District, and can be visited every
day from 8 AM to 6 PM.
Fin
Historic Garden
Bagh-e
Shah, the King’s Garden (also known as the Bagh-e Tarikhi-e
Fin or Bagh-e Amir Kabir) at Fin 6 km to the southwest, and perhaps
the finest surviving example in Iran, creates the contrast between
the Kevir region and the greenery of the well-tended oasis below the
adjoining Karkass mountain. A major part of Kashan’s water was
supplied by the perennial source of Suleimanieh spring in the garden.
References
to Fin in historical sources go back to more than 1,000 years. Designed
for Shah Abbas I, this classical Persian vision of paradise has always
been prized for its natural springs and still contains the remains
of his two-story palace set around a pool. The garden has other Safavid
royal buildings, although they were substantially rebuilt, and others
were added in the Qajar period. The building housing Kashan Museum
was built in 1968, in harmony with the historical monuments within
the Garden, covering 900 square meters, and comprising 8 vast galleries,
wherein items from Iranian culture and civilization in various periods
of history are displayed.
At present,
the pleasant sight of water from Suleimanieh spring, ever spouting
from fountainheads by the sole means of difference in elevation is
one of the attractions of this complex. Flowing at an elevation of
1,060 meters above sea level, it passes through numerous paths of
the Garden, reaches the Fin village, and water orchards famous for
their unparalleled figs and pomegranates. Once it operated 33 water-mills.
Apart from being used for medical purposes in the past centuries and
attracting the attention of many scholars and physicians, it was estimated
that the daily turnover of this spring amounted to one thousand mesghals
(5 kg) of pure gold.
Although
Kashan was in a state of decay during the early Qajar times, the village
Fin and its beautiful Garden were nevertheless one of the favorite
resorts of Fath Ali Shah; in fact he was as fond of the place as any
of Safavid predecessors had been. He rebuilt the palace, planted many
more cypresses and bordered the stream from the spring with marble
slabs. Although usually associated with ease and pleasure (such as
the coronation of Safavid kings), Fin was the scene of a tragedy in
1852, when Mirza Taqi Khan known as Amir Kabir, the Grand Vizier of
Nasser od-Din Shah, was murdered there. He is considered a national
hero and vanguard of modern Iran. Fin can be reached by shared taxi
and bus from central Kashan via Amir Kabir Street and 17th Shahrivar
Square. It is open to visitors every day from 8 AM to 6 PM.
Madraseh
Sultani
Now
called the Imam Khomeini School, it is one of the largest and most
magnificent building in Kashan, and was once used as the religious
students’ accommodation. The building is located next to the
Jewlers’ Bazaar. Built in early 19th century by the order of
Fath Ali Shah Qajar in 9 years, the school has a double-shell brick
dome, measuring 27 meters from the ground level to its inner surface.
There are 52 cells on four sides of the rectangular courtyard of the
School. It is open to visitors every day from 8 AM to 6 PM.
Masjid-e
Jam’e
Being
Kashan’s oldest building from Seljuk period, the mosque (also
known as the Friday Mosque) has a brick dome and a high ivan. It is
said that the original building was a fire-temple before the conversion
of people to Islam. The older minaret of the mosque is from the eleventh
or twelfth century and the third oldest minaret in Iran according
to its inscription; rest of the building is later. Original combinations
of brick and glazed tile can be seen on the ceiling of the underneath
floor. The Mosque is located on Baba Afzal Street. It is open to visitors
every day from 8 AM to 6 PM.
Religious
Ceremonies
One
of the most interesting religious ceremonies of Shiites is held in
Mashhad-e Ardehal, 40 km to the east of Kashan. On arriving in the
village, the visitor will find a tomb on a slope of high hill. Inside
the tomb lies His Holiness Sultan Ali, son of the fifth Imam, who
was invited from Medina to this region nearly 12 centuries ago. The
tomb has two magnificent courtyards and a couple of splendid balconies.
The whole building complex along with the tall minarets decorated
with ceramic tiles, belong to Seljuk period architecture.
A large
crowd from Qum, Kashan, Khomein, Mahallat, Saveh, Delijan, Golpayegan,
Yazd, and many other towns gather here during the second Friday of
the month of Mehr (early October) to commemorate the chain of events
leading to the founding of the present-day Ghali Shuyan (carpet washing)
ceremony on the occasion of the assassination of His Holiness. Inhabitants
of Fin, at the time of the event, on hearing of this, rushed to the
place to no avail. They put his body on a carpet and, as is the Muslim
custom, washed him in a stream which was 150 meters away from the
place, and then buried him.
Since
then, the people of Fin hold the same ceremony on the same day. They
leave the Shrine carrying the remains of the same carpet on their
shoulders, and while mourning, symbolically beat the remains with
long sticks to show their hatred towards the enemies of His Holiness.
No outsider is allowed to touch the remains of the carpet.
Tomb
of Sohrab Sepehri, a modern Iranian poet and painter, is located in
the eastern wing of the Shrine.
Another
important religious ceremony held annually on the 21st day of Ramazan
(fasting month), takes place in the historic side of Mohammad Helal
Shrine in Aran, 10 km to the north of Kashan. Helal was a direct descendant
of His Holiness Imam Ali.
Sultan
Amir Ahmad Shrine
Sultan
Amir Ahmad was the son of Imam Musa ‘bn-e Ja’far, whose
shrine along with a sanctuary, wide porticos and a conic dome are
of the most interesting sights to see. The Shrine dates back to the
Seljuk and Safavid periods. The ceramic works in front of the large
ivan and two lateral minarets have been reconstructed during the Qajar
period. The site is located in Alavi Street, Sultan Amir Ahmad District.
Tappeh
Sialk
Betwwen
the Bagh-e Shah (Fin) and Kashan is the mound of Tappeh Sialk the
site of a prehistoric culture which was dated by Ghirshman who excavated
the Tappeh in the ‘30s and later, to the second half of the
15th millennium BC. Later discoveries showed that the Site is more
than 7,000 years old. It is probably the richest archaeological site
so far uncovered in central Iran, although the most interesting finds
have been moved to various institutes and museums, including National
Museum of Iran in Tehran and Louvre in Paris.
There
are two mounds here, the largest of which is to the south. Excavated
by the French Archaelogical Service in 1933-34 and 1937-38, the site
has revealed a large number and variety of pottery and domestic implements
of clay, stone and bone from as early as the 4th millennium BC, and
is believed to have been first settled in the 5th millennium or earlier.
It appears to have been sacked and deserted in about the 8th century
BC. You can still see the outline of various mud-brick buildings and
a large number of potsherds embedded throughout the two mounds.
Perhaps
the most interesting finds are some inscribed clay tablets dating
from the late 3rd and early 2nd millennia BC. The remains here give
an interesting record of the waves of immigrants and conquerors who
passed this way, and settled near the abundant water supply at the
site of the present-day Bagh-e Fin. Nowadays, Tappeh Sialk is situated
along the Amir Kabir Street.
Abyaneh
Abyaneh
is a beautiful historic village at the foot of Karkass mountain 70
km to the southeast of Kashan and 40 km to Natanz. This is a village
of living traditions, architectural styles (all in red clay), and
probably the most interesting example of human adaptation to nature,
wherein one can transcend the boundaries of time and space and experience
the ancient civilization and culture of Iran. The village is compact,
with narrow and sloped lanes, and houses located on the slope as if
placed on a stairway. Here, the roofs of some houses are used to serve
as the courtyard for other houses higher up on the slope. The language
spoken by the literate people of Abyaneh is Parthian Pahlavi. They
are deeply committed to honoring their traditions. No matter how well
educated a person from Abyaneh might be, he or she puts on the traditional
Abyaneh costume on coming back to the village from anywhere in Iran.
The women’s traditional costume consisting of a scarf with floral
motifs and pleated pants, is particularly attractive. The Abyaneh
woman is unseparably attached to her wedding gown inherited from her
mother, and is expected to pass it on to her daughter. It bears such
an intrinsic value of her that she wouldn’t sell it at any price.
There
are a good number of old houses in Abyaneh, among them the homes of
Gholam Nader Shah and Nayeb Hossein Kashi. In addition to the Zoroastrian
fire-temple (from the Sassanian period) in the village, there are
three castles, a pilgrimage site, three mosques named Hajatgah, Porzaleh,
and Jam’e, all worth a careful visit. Altogether there are eight
mosques in the village.
The
Hajatgah mosque, built next to a rock, dates from the early Safavid
period, according to an inscription on top of its door. Inside the
mosque there is a beautiful nocturnal prayer hall with wooden capital
pillars.
Porzaleh
mosque, built during the Illkhanid reign in the oldest part of the
village, has a very vast nocturnal prayer hall. The ornamentations
used here look very much like those of the tomb of Bayazid of Bastam,
the great Persian mystic.
The
Jam’e Mosque of Abyaneh dates back to the eleventh century.
There are a number of inscriptions and a manbar (pulpit) in the mosque.
The interesting thing is that the pulpit has many features similar
to the architectural elements and column heads seen in Persepolis.
ADDRESSES
AND TELEPHONE NUMBERS
ACCESS
AND DISTANCES:
By road,
rail and air from Tehran (240 km) and Esfahan (220 km), and by rail
and bus from all other towns, such as Qum (85 km), Yazd (419), and
Kerman (806 km). The modern airport of the town is equipped for local
flights.
ACCIDENTS:
Traffic
Police 555588
Road Police 03645-2222
AIRPORT:
Rah va Siahat Travel Agency, Mulla Mohsen Street, 22013-4
Pars Travel Agency, 22nd Bahman Street, 554070
BANK MELLI IRAN:
Central
Branch: Shahid Raja’i St., Mir Emad Street, 49412
BUS TERMINAL:
Export Bus Company, Shahid Montazeri Street, 556047
Iran Benz Bus Company, 22nd Bahman Street, 22480
Iran Peyma Bus Company, Jomhuri Square, 552595
Jahan Mosafer, 558555
CITY DIALING CODE NUMBER:
The
city dialing code number of Kashan is 0361.
DRUG
STORES (24-HOUR):
Kowsar, Imam Khomeini Street, 46321
Marjan, Baba Afzal Street, 24096
Mo’tamed, Bokharai Street, 29540
Shafa, Kashani Street, 23266
EMERGENCIES:
Emergency 22023; 115
Sultan Amir Clinic, Alavi Street, 22499
FIRE STATION:
Imam
Khomeini Ave, 47000. 112
GOVERNOR’S OFFICE:
Farmandari,
22nd Bahman Street.
MEDICAL
SERVICES:
Akhavan Hospital, Abazar Street, 43000
Golabchi Hospital, Imam Street, 42061
Matini, Amir Kabir Street, 32024
Naghavi Hospital, 22021
Shahid Beheshti, Ravandi Blvd, 550026-9
MUNICIPALITY:
Darvazeh
Dowlat, Abazar St. 22034, 55004-8
POLICE:
Jomhuri
Square, 24037-9; Road Police, 25555
POST AND TELECOMMUNICATIONS:
Post:
15th Khordad Sq. 42032
Telecommunications: Shahid Raja’i Street, 24211, 116.
RESTAURANTS:
Fazel, Shahid Khademi Blvd. 556676
Golshan, Shahid Motahari Blvd. 25272
Sayyah, Abazar St. 44535
Teihu, 22nd Bahman St. 46299
TAXI AGENT:
Amir Kabir, Amir Kabir Street, 32550
Azadegan, Modarres Street, 21109
Bahman, Imam Street, 42186
Edalat, Jomhuri Square, 25452
Haghighat, Khandai Street, 30998
Masoud, Beheshti Street, 27791
Payam, Taleghani Street, 40786
Vali Asr, Motahari Street, 26905.
TOURIST MAP:
Available
in English and Persian
TOURIST OFFICE:
Islamic Guidance Office, Sa’idi Street 44948
Cultural Heritage Department, Alavi Street, 23777.
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