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Bandar
Abbas
Seaport
and capital of Hormozagan Province, Bandar Abbas with more than 200,000
inhabitants, is located on the south of Iran at an elevation of 15
meters above sea level and overlooks the strategic Strait of Hormoz.
It is a port in the middle of strait linking the Persian Gulf to the
Sea of Oman. With a distance of 1,501 km from Tehran, it can be reached
by air (Iran Air, Kish Air, and Mahan Air), a first-class road, and
rail (in a very near future).
Compared
to other ports along the Persian Gulf and the Sea of Oman, modern
Bandar Abbas is the largest and the most equipped port, which occupies
a strategic position of the greatest importance. In summer it gets
sizzling hot and very humid here, but it’s pleasant enough to
visit in winter.
In the
16th century, the Portuguese took possession of the Isle of Hormoz
in order to use the latter as an outpost for the protection of their
Indian Empire. They were expelled in 1622 after a tough naval battle,
by Shah Abbas the Great who founded the town which continues to bear
his name ever since (it was called Gambro or Gambrun until then, which
was the name of a type of abundantly found small crustacean around
the town).
Following
the downfall of Safavid dynasty and the Afghan invasion of Iran, Nadir
Shah became the king of Iran. He expelled the Afghans, from Iran and,
among other things, constructed a shipbuilding industry and the corresponding
port facilities at Bushehr, as the result of which the fame of Bandar
Abbas eclipsed and the town began to fall into ruin.
Revival
of Bandar Abbas took place only recently. Its all-round development
has been the result of social, commercial, military, political, and
tourism imperatives. Close to the Arab world and, through the Sea
of Oman, open to the oceans of Asia, Bandar Abbas is serving Iran
as its most natural maritime outlet at present.
The
port stretches out along a long and narrow coastal strip. The main
east-west thoroughfare changes its name from Shahid Beheshti Blvd
to Imam Khomeini Street and then to Pasdarn Blvd. The main docks (Shahid
Bahunar) are in the west of town, the airport and bus station to the
east and the main road out of Bandar Abbas in all directions extends
eastwards from Shahid Beheshti Blvd.
A considerable
part of the local population lives on the proceeds of its fishing
activities. Partly employing the traditional net, most of them are
using modern methods of preservation and transport which has led to
a rapid extension of Iranian fisheries industry. Industrial fishing
is carried out in the Sea of Oman and the Indian Ocean. Agriculture
goes on with two annual harvests: early out of season garden products,
fruits, dates, and citrus.
During
the last two decades, the well-to-do citizens of the capital, as well
as some northerners coming, for example, from Tabriz and Mashhad,
hit on the bright idea of indulging in winter holidays under the southern
sun. At that time of year the climate is astonishingly mild at Bandar
Abbas. The great damp heat does not start before May and becomes unbearable
only between June and September. The wide beaches are covered with
silky sand, cleansed by fairly ample tides. The gentle slope provides
a safe playground for children. The newly constructed hotels offer
gardens, swimming pools and playing fields.
Considering
the climatic conditions of the region, which are harmful to historical
monuments (in many ways similar to the Caspian Coastal region), the
antique monuments are restricted to an old Green Mosque in the district
of Nowshahr; a disaffected Hindu Temple with its characteristic, conical
roofs, the Pilgrimage to Khezr known as Khajeh Khezr, in the western
part of the town; and a Kolah Fargani mansion from the Safavid period.
With
the exception of the rich regional museum, the most attractive natural
points are to be found in the surroundings: material water in Genau,
the new Kuh-e Genau Wildlife park, and the great agricultural town
of Minab. Motor boats are available for round trips to the islands.
An interesting
local tradition which will be seen in Bandar Abbas and many other
coastal towns of Hormozgan Province, are the borqas or the "masks"
worn by some women, which are fairly hideous, semi-rigid contraptions
surrounding eyes and cheek-bones and covering the nose. The Iranians
believe that no religious taboo explains the wearing of these masks:
rather it is a fashion which originates from the period of Portuguese
occupation when ladies wished to talk about unrecognized or simply
to protect their face from the scorching sun.
Hormoz
Two
islands clearly visible from the beach at Bandar Abbas, are Hormoz
on the left and Qeshm on the right.
Its
great prosperity and, in particular, its situation of strategic importance
at the entrance of the Persian Gulf led Albuquerque, the great Portuguese
commander, to seize it early in the sixteen century. Under Portuguese
rule, Hormoz became the great entrepot for that country’s trade
with Persia and neighboring lands. The fact that such a flourishing
place was in foreign hands was so galling to Shah Abbas the Great
(1587-1629) that he, in 1622, induced the East India Company to allow
ships to cooperate with his land forces and wrest it from the Portuguese.
This successful operation, besides restoring Hormoz to Persia and
so enhancing her prestige, so weakened the power of the Portuguese
in the Persian Gulf that the East India Company was able to consolidate
its position in that region. Shah Abbas, however, instead of maintaining
Hormoz as a great port and trading center, abandoned it in favor of
a small port on the adjacent mainland through which all goods in transit
to or from Hormoz had to pass; the Shah then renamed this small port
Bandar-e Abbas (the Port of Abbas), as he wished it to become the
chief in his kingom.
Although
almost entirely neglected by travelers and locals alike since the
Revolution, its castle is without doubt the most impressive colonial
fortress in Iran. Constructed of reddish stone on a rocky promontory
at the far north of the island, the castle was originally cut off
from the rest of the island by a moat, traces of which remain. Although
most of the roofing long ago caved in, much of the lower part of the
very substantial outer walls are intact, with the remains lying on
different levels of the site.
The
present town of Hormoz is interest, although there is nothing actually
to do except ramble through the small maze of alleys. The focus of
activity lies along the thin strip of beach to the west of town, where
boats and passengers with their various small shipments compete in
trying to avoid the attention of patrolling soldiers and guards. The
highly important Hormoz Strait, situated south of Bandar Abbas, is
the vital passageway of international oil tankers, and Iran’s
supremacy over it speaks of the country’s key position in the
region.
Qeshm
Qeshm
Island, by far the largest of all islands in this part of the Middle
East (with more than 70,000 inhabitants and more than twice the size
of Bahrain or Singapore), is situated some 22 km from Bandar Abbas,
and few tourists can pretend to know it. However, the shortest distance
between the mainland Iran is not more than 1800 meters. It occupies
an area of 1,500 sq. km (136 km long and 12.5 km wide). The island
is mountainous, with a large rocky coast dotted with villages (85
altogether, 76 of which are populated) and small towns but few settlements
of any size in the interior. There are deer, snakes and scorpions
here as well as various types of birds – pelicans are found
in the mudflats off the northwest shore of the island. There are many
freshwater streams throughout the island, and there is some scope
for subsistence agriculture. Salt mines on the southeast coast complete
the picture.
The
island was mentioned by Marco Polo, and later marked out for colonial
potential by Vasco da Gama. The Portuguese built a castle in the east
of Qeshm during their occupation of Hormoz, and the island came under
the sway of the Dutch, the East India Company, the French, Germans
and the British in turn, and it was only brought back firmly into
Iran shortly after World War I.
All
the buildings of the Island were destroyed by an earthquake roughly
100 years ago. The city of Qeshm lies at the island’s northeastern
tip, with a mehmansara (guesthouse) which enables travelers driven
by curiosity to quench their thirst for the unknown. Road communications
around the island are very poor, and it would take several days to
explore the whole of Qeshm Island even superficially. The only road
out of Qeshm leads northwest from the main square (Jihad-e Sazandegi).
Before visiting the island, you can check the latest state of development
from the Secretariat, Qeshm Free Area Authority in Tehran, Somayeh
Street, Tel 824456, 8197265, and 8107267. The second town and port,
Dargahan, is 22 km west of Qeshm. The characteristic slope of the
island’s mountains gives it a particular landscape and a part
of its southern coast is adorned by good sand beaches.
Remnants
of several fortresses, as well as piping and cannonballs, left behind
by the Portuguese, and 33 graves of the British soldiers fallen in
Basaidu, are to be seen here. The majority of population, inhabitants
of the city of Qeshm, earn their living from fishing, seafaring and
commerce. In Qeshm, there are few mosques, both Sunni and Shiite,
of Arab origin.
The
strait between Qeshm Island and the continent is occupied by large
mangrove forests through which one can sail along a network of muddy
water channels. This part of the coast is now a protected region.
However,
according to the island’s first post-revolutionary five-year
Plan, launched on 31 January 1990, it became a free area (on the same
line as Kish Island), under its own ministerial council chaired by
no less than the President of the Republic, and with its own executive
president. This council is called The Qeshm Free Area Authority.
Under
these plans Qeshm Island will become the entrepot of the Persian Gulf,
with a support on its south coast and a causeway connecting north
coast with the mainland. The vast untapped natural gas reserves in
the strait will be sold off to Iranian and foreign companies in compensation
for setting up a number of industries in the island. Supporting a
large community of mainland Iranians and expatriates there will be
international schools, cultural-athletic facilities, a Hormoz International
University, an Islamic Azad University, hotels (Qeshm Hotel with 108
rooms, Sara Hotel with 48 rooms, and another one with 48 rooms), telecommunications,
fully-equipped hospitals, good roads and an international airport,
hundreds of residential units, a cement factory, and construction
of Persian Gulf Bridge connecting Qeshm to the mainland railway, among
other facilities at present very much lacking. Eventually Qeshm Island
will develop into a major international economic and financial center
and the largest free area between Europe and Japan. It’s also
planned to market the island as a tourist attraction, emphasizing
its natural facilities and potential for water sports.
ADDRESSES
AND TELEPHONE NUMBERS
ACCESS
AND DISTANCES: 1501 km to Tehran. 498 km to Kerman. 601 km to Shiraz.
1039 km to Zahedan. 1082 km to Esfahan.
ACCIDENTS:
Traffic
Accidents 114, 27788
AIR
AGENT:
One
Iran Air office is opposite the entrance to Homa Hotel. The main Iran
Air office is on the south side of Imam Khomeini Ave, 500 meters east
of Shohada Square (26250), and it is the place to go for domestic
and international flights.
AIRPORT:
There
is no airport bus. A taxi to and from the airport is 2000 to 2500
rials for a solo passenger. Tel 22012-3
BANKS
AND EXCHANGE OFFICES:
Bank
Melli Iran, on the southwest of Vali-Asr Square.
Bluki Exchange Office, Imam Mussa Sadr Street 26169, 23512.
Chah Tussi Exchange Office, Guriha Alley 25551.
Hormozgan Exchange Office, Bluki Square 25684.
Kar Saz Exchange Office, No 1919 Bluki Square 25534.
Khatib Exchange Office, Delgosha Street 23169
Morvarid Exchange Office, Ahmadi Shopping Center 27446
Sa’id Exchange Office, Imam Khomeini Ave, Bluki Square 26984
Savan Exchange Office, Mohammadi Ruhi Shopping Center 27148
Yadgar Far Exchange Office, Ahmadi Shopping Center 23762, 25248
BUS
TERMINAL:
Near
the airport to the east of town, but bus companies are spread out
around the center of town. Bus Company No 8 is on the north side of
Imam Khomeini Ave, just west of Vali-Asr Square; and Bus Company No
1 is on the west side of Dr Behesti Street 600 meters north of Velayat
Square. There are buses from Bandar-e Abbas to nearly all major towns
and provincial centers.
CITY
DIALING CODE NUMBER:
The
dialing code for Bandar-e Abbas is 0761
DRUG STORE (24-HOUR):
Sina, Shari’ati Street 22119
Helal Ahmar, Imam Khomeini Ave 25655
Razi, Shahid Beheshti Street 26461
EMERGENCIES:
Jomhuri-e
Eslami Blvd 22095, 22055
FIRE STATION:
Imam
Khomeini Blvd 112, 22331. Jomhuri-e Eslami Blvd 24000
GOVERNOR’S OFFICE:
Ostandari,
on the sea front in Shahid Chamran Blvd, about a km from Enghelab
Square 27002, 22211.
Farmandari,
Motahari Blvd 27772, 26380
MEDICAL
SERVICES:
Omm-e Leila Hospital, Nayband-e Shomali 27172
Shahid Mohammadi Hospital, Jomhuri-e Eslami Blvd 24445, 27696.
MUNICIPALITY:
In an
alley on the north side of Imam Khomeini Ave, 250 meters west of Enghelab
Square 23021-2
POLICE:
17th
Shahrivar Square 27676
POST
AND TELECOMMUNICATIONS:
Shahid
Beheshti Street 116
RAILWAY STATION:
Will
be operating in near future
RESTAURANTS:
Ghadir, Aivaziha Bazaar 23664
Ghodss, Imam Khomeini Blvd 259700
Homa Hotel has the city’s smartest restaurant
Iran, Imam Khomeini Ave, Bazaar-e Ruz 23833
Ladan Ice Cream Shop on the northwest side of Vali-Asr Square caters
to the visitor’s need for ice cream, faludeh, milkshakes, coffee
or tea.
Sajjad, on the north side of Imam Khomeini Ave, 400 meters east of
Imam Khomeini Square 22841. Here you can have chelo meigu (battered
prawns or shrimps with boiled rice) and good chelo kabab
Salamat, Bargh Square 22408
Shahrzad (not marked in English), on Vali-Asr Square, serves good
chelo kabab
TAXI:
Because
of taxi shortage in Bandar-e Abbas, we recommend you to use telephone
taxis, particularly the 24-hour service at Homa Hotel.
TOURIST
MAP:
Available
in English and Persian
TOURIST OFFICE:
Imam
Khomeini Ave 23032, 24232-3
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