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YAZD Capital of Yazd province, the focal point for bus journeys south and southeast to Bandar-e Abbas or Kerman and Zahedan, and 677 km southeast of Tehran, right in the center of Iran and almost entirely surrounded by deserts is the city of Yazd. Situated in a long valley just over 1,215 meters above sea level, and occupying an area of 72,000 kilometers, the town can be reached by road, rail and the town can be reached by road, rail and regular flights from Tehran and major towns. The valley is bounded on the southwest by the extensive Shir Kuh range the highest peak of which is 4,075 meters high; to the northeast rises an isolated massif, which is nearly 3,000 meters in height. Called Ke-Se and Issa’ees during the ancient period of Iranian history, it was renamed to Farafiz and Yazdan Gerd during the reign of the Sassanian king Yadgerd I (399-421 AD). The name comes from Yazdan and Izad denoting "holiness" and "blessedness". According to some historical documents the history of Yazd goes back to the time of Alexander the Great, or one millennium before the emergence of Islam. It was conquered by the Arabs in 642, and subsequently became an important station on the caravan routes to Central Asia and India, exporting its silks, textiles and carpets far and wide. It was spared destruction by Chengiz Khan and tamerland and flourished in the 14th and 15th centuries, but its commercial success and stability were never translated into political status. Like most of the rest of Iran, the town fell into decline after the end of the Safavid era, and remained little more than a provincial outpost until the extension of the railway line here under the last Shah. Until the very recent past, the town used to draw its scanty water supply mainly from the Shir Kuh mountains by means of an elaborate system of qanats or underground conduits, some of which are as much as 45 km long. Inhabitants of Yazd (now over 282, 751 according to 1992 census) excel all other Iranians in the making of qanats, and the services of the highly skilled muqannis or qanat makers of Yazd are often in demand in other parts of the country. In addition to having written in bold letters some of the chapters of the story of man’s incessant struggle against nature, Yazd represents a microcosm of dilemmas and arts, the troubled social and religious harmonies that invigorate Iran. Zoroastrians have always been populous in Yazd. Even now roughly twelve thousand of the town’s population adhere to this ancient religion, and though their fire temple was turned into a mosque when the Arabs invaded Iran, a dignified new fire temple was inaugurated thirteen hundred years later. The architecture of Yazd is unique, combining a proliferation of those graceful bad-girs (wind-towers) seen in central and southern Iran: the houses are surmounted by high turrets with openings oriented toward the dominant winds; these insure the ventilation of the lower parts of the house rather like air-vents on a ship. Enormous domes starting at ground level and also surmounted by air-vents act as protective roofs for deep water-tanks six, eight or ten meters below street level, which were reached by stair-cases. Yazdis of the present day retain their sterling qualities of old. They are strongly religious, whether their faith be Islam or the "Good Religion" of ancient Iran. A desert city reconverting commercially and industrially, as well as a historical city, which regrets never having been a national capital, Yazd commemorates by unusual monuments the importance given it by scores of scientists and scholars in the past centuries. In the industrial fields, Yazdis practice carpet weaving, silk weaving, shawl making, the manufacture of the shoes known as giveh and the making of abasor cloaks. Many are engaged in agriculture, the noblest of all employment according to the Avesta, the holy book of Zoroastrianism. The center of Yazd is Shahid Dr Beheshti Square (former Mojahedin Square). From here to the train station in the south of Yazd, or the bus station almost next to it, is about three-km. There are a couple of places to stay within walking distance of the main square, but most of them are some distance away and in various directions. Most of the main sights can be visited on foot, but it is very probable that one may get lost in the dense network of alleys and cul-de-sacs. Atashkadeh The most important Zoroastrian fire temple, Atashkadeh (located on a hill in a small garden on the east side of Ayatollah Kashani Street) is open to the public from 08:00 to 11:00 a.m. and 02:30 to 04:30 p.m. Saturday to Thursday, except holidays. There is no entrance fee, but donations are welcomed. It is surrounded by evergreen trees and a large round pool in the courtyard, which gives a clear reflection of the temple for artistic photography. The sacred flame behind a glass visible from the small museum inside has, according to the Zoroastrian elder in attendance here, been burning since about 470 AD and was transferred from its original site in 1940. This attracts Zoroastrians from around the world, and there will probably be someone who speaks English to explain thing to you. There are also a couple of paintings here, including one of Zoroaster. Architecturally, there are certain similarities between this fire-temple and those of Indian Zoroastrians. There are plenty of other Zoroastrian sites such as Qal’eh-ye Asadan (the Fortress of Lions) in the far northeast of Yazd, and the most important one, Chak Chak (see below), 52 km to the north. City Walls In ancient Iran there were many types of public structures, from among which one may mention the achievement represented by city walls. The twelfth to fourteenth century walls of Yazd, which are still standing, are perhaps the most interesting, imposing and skillfully planned. In Yazd, sections of the old walls and moat remain, providing an interesting example of a medieval wall, fortified by moat, towers and barbicans, now buried deep within a town which has long since expanded beyond its old limits. These walls were begun, it is said, in 1119 and rebuilt and extended during the 14th century. In places, they were 15 meters high; being nicely decorated with ornamental devices such as those employed on unglazed pottery. Bazaar The 12 historic bazaars of Yazd are worth a visit. The most important bazaars here are: Bazaar-e Khan; Goldsmiths Bazaar; and Panjeh Ali Bazaar. The many bazaars here are probably the best places in Iran to buy silk fabric, cashmere, brocades and cloth (taffeta and Yazdi shawl) all the beautiful local designs, motifs, and colors, the products which brought the town its prosperity. Try to take an Iranian guide with you. Yazd is also a good place for cakes and sweets (baghlava, qottab, pashmak), although quite a lot of the tempting tooth-rotters on display aren’t actually made in the town. Amir Chakhmaq Mosque On no account should you miss the fourteenth-century AD Masjid-e Amir Chakhmaq or Masjid-e Jom’eh (an exact contemporary of the Masjid-e Jam’e) next to the bazaar portal, famous for its superb portal ornamented with stucco, and the traditional four-ivan structure on a courtyard a little too small for the ivans. Originally, it was called Masjid-e Now (New Mosque). The frieze on the portal has artistically very valuable calligraphy etched on it, according to which the mosque was built by the zealous efforts of Bibi Fatemeh Khatun, wife of Yazd governor Amir Jalal od-Din Chakhmaq. A marble mihrab has been installed, around which decorative tiles and verses of the Holy Koran have been etched over stone. The mosque is very near to the Takieh-ye Mir Chakhmaq, a 19th century tiled edifice built to serve as a grandstand for the traditional passion play, or Ta’zieh, recording the martyrdom of the third Imam Hossein, that is acted during the mourning month of Muharram (lunar) in the Takieh, or special theater used for these performances, of which it formed part. At present, the free space in front of the monument has been turned into the central square of the town, and has acquired a new appearance as a result of trees and flowers having been planted. Actually, this represents one of the buildings of a historic complex incorporating a mosque, a public bath, a caravansary, a mausoleum, a takieh, three water reservoirs, and an imposing entrance to one of Yazd’s bazaars. Jam’e Mosque Masjid-e Jam’e, also known as the Friday Mosque, like so many important mosques, was the focus of a complex of buildings of various periods and styles in various states of conservation. The site of a Sassanian fire temple, its major features, however, were begun in 1324 and continuously developed for forty years. There is no more impressive gateway in Iran than this great soaring 14th century edifice. Crowned by a pair of minarets, the highest in Iran, the portal’s facade is decorated from top to bottom in dazzling tilework, predominantly blue in color. Inside there is a long arcaded court where, behind a deep-set southeast ivan, is a sanctuary chamber which, under a squat tiled dome, is exquisitely decorated with faience mosaic: its tall faience mihrab, dated 1365, is one of the finest of its kind in existence. The tilework has recently been skillfully restored and a modern library built to house the mosque’s valuable collection of books and manuscripts. By the side of the Masjid-e Jam’e, along a side street to the right, was the Vaqt va Sa’at (Time and Hour) complex, now reduced to the Shrine of Rokn ad-Din, who was responsible for building the complex. The observatory (which gave its name), a library, and a madraseh, have all vanished. Twelve Imams Shrine Further from the center can be found the splendid early 12th century Shrine of the Twelve Imams (maghbareh-ye Davazdah Emam) properly described as a funerary mosque. It is almost next door to the Zendan-e Eskandar (Alexander’s Prison, a deep, circular, brick-lined pit about 10 m in diameter) and has a fine three line Kuffic inscription inside, with the names of each of the Shiite Imams, none of whom is buried here. Although the mausoleum is small, dusty and forgotten, it is nonetheless a well-preserved building of the period. There some interesting plaster moldings on the mihrab, and the brick dome is a good early example of its kind. The Maghbareh is locked, but the door-keeper at Zendan-e Eskandar next door will take you in. Don’t forget to give him a tip of at least 500 rials. It would be also good to have a guide or taxi driver with you. Mausoleum of Seyed Rokn od-Din The Boqeh (mausoleum) belongs to the 14th century Ad and consists of a portal, a fine cupola covered with enameled tiles, and an inscription in Kuffic calligraphy. Inside the cupola, there are brick decorations, and construction of the mausoleum has been attributed to Amir Rokn od-Din Mohammad Qazi. Before becoming a mausoleum, it was known as the Masjid-e Mosalla-ye Atiq. Yazd Museum The Mirror-Palace Archaeological Complex in Ayatollah Kashani Avenue, with a built-up area of 837 square meters, stands in a beautiful garden and was previously used as the private guest house of a local well-to-do owner. It includes impressive structures such as a large vestibule, a howz khaneh (fountain hall), a gallery, and several rooms. Following the victory of Islamic Revolution, the ensemble was confiscated, and partially transformed into the present museum. Here you can see antiquities, calligraphic works, weapons, stamps, Lurestan bronzes, etc. Visiting hours: everyday 07:00 a.m. to 17:00 p.m. except holidays. Tel: (0351) 35077. Bagh-e Dowlat Historic Complex This is a complex built according to the original Iranian architectural style and consists of a large garden and some buildings. Being watered by a qanat, until the very recent past it was used for the residence of the provincial governor. The most impressive part of the complex are a 33-meter high bad-gir (wind-tower) on the roof and a water stream in the interior. The air was conducted into the interior and cooled through the action of the flowing water. Lattice doors and windows with stained glass patterns impart a pleasing sight to the complex. HENNA An ancient Iranian Herbal Substance with Modern Application Henna is an orange red dye that yields varied colors depending on the surface to which it is applied. It comes from the leaves of a small shrub that grows in Iran, India, and the African coasts of the Mediterranean, and is used in cosmetics, perfumery, and medicine. By distilling henna flowers, an intensely fragrant boiling henna powder, a yellowish brown color is gained which turns into brilliant red when mixed with an alkaline matter. Henna stems are used in dyeing industry to obtain the red color. Using henna for coloring hair, hands and feet – considered a traditional beauty ritual – has a long history. Fresh henna powder was made into a paste by adding other materials, in order to produce an attractive orange color. The mixture could then be used as mascara for eyelashes. The color lasts three or four weeks. According to Avicenna (908-1038), boiled henna leaves are effective in treating inflammations and burns caused by fire, mouth and gum sores, prevention of nervous disorders as well as healing of bone fractures. In regions where sun shines directly and intensely, coloring of the scalp with henna is recommended. In Europe hennas has been used for curing rheumatism and helping skin regeneration in wounds. Boiled henna leaves mixed with peach leaves were used for treatment of eczema. To obtain violet, the amount of supplementary colors in the mixture is increased. If henna is mixed, with verjuice or lemon juice, its effect will be enhanced and a better color obtained. To change hair color to blonde, one portion of rhubarb flower and two portions of henna are mixed. Henna has traditionally been growing in the provinces of Kerman, Sistan va Baluchistan, and Yazd where it is considered a native plant. Henna mills can be visited around Yazd. EXCURSIONS AROUND YAZD Towers of Silence Dakhmeh or Qal’eh-ye Khamushan (Towers of Silence): These are three impressive buildings remaining from several other similar structures on hilltops outside and in the immediate vicinity of the town (about 15 km to the south-west) where the bodies of the dead Zoroastrians would be brought to the foot of the tower so that a ritual ceremony could be held in presence of the relatives and friends of the deceased. The body was then carried by the priests into the tower where it was laid on the flat stones on the ground – thus avoiding that earth, water, and fire, the divine elements be contaminated, the soul of the defunct person having already been by Ahura Mazda. In a short time the body would be torn apart by passing vultures and crows. The bones were then thrown into a circular pit in the center of the tower. At the foot of the towers stand the remains of the buildings, which once served for the funerary ceremonies. When the towers were still used for Zoroastrian burials, only the priests were allowed into them. Nowadays, however, some of them have been opened to the public. Beneath the hill there are several other disused Zoroastrian buildings including a defunct well, two small bad-girs, a kitchen and a lavatory. The custom of exposing corpses in a tower of silence largely disappeared throughout the Zoroastrian world around 50 years ago, at about the same time that the eternal flame was transferred to the newly constructed Atashkadeh in the center of Yazd. As a matter of fact, the towers was used until 1978, after which all Zoroastrian dead were buried in the cemetery at the foot of the towers. The site can be reached only by taxi or private car. Chak Chak This important Zoroastrian fire-temple is on a hill 52 km to the north-northeast of Yazd. It attracts thousands of pilgrims for an annual festival, which lasts for ten days from the beginning of the third month after Now Ruz. To visit, it is best to get the permission of the religious authorities at the Atashkadeh in Yazd. The return trip, by a difficult stretch of road off the main route to Tababs, will cost around 10,000 to 12,000 rials by hired taxi.
ADDRESSES
AND TELEPHONE NUMBERS 671 km to Tehran, 308 km to Esfahan, 351 km to Kerman, 884 km to Zahedan ACCIDENTS: Road Police 35200; 22243 Traffic Department and 110 AIR AGENT: The Iran Air Office is on the West Side of Motahari Ave, 50 meters north of Azadi Square, 38030. You may book flight from Yazd to Bandar-e Abbas, Mashhad, and Tehran. Yasna Air Agent 22213. AIRPORT: There is no airport bus service, but you can take a taxi into town for 2000 rials, 43031. To get from Yazd to the airport, book a telephone taxi through your hotel. BANKS AND EXCHANGE OFFICES: Bank
Melli Iran, Imam Khomeini Ave- Masjid-e Jam’e Street intersection.
33424, the bus company offices are all in the vicinity of the train station. Usually no more than half of them are open at any one time. You can get buses to actually all major towns. CITY DIALING CODE NUMBER: The dialing code for Yazd is 0351. DRUG STORE (24-HOUR): Shahid Chamran 36900 EMERGENCIES: 115,
118. 112, 34444 GOVERNOR’S OFFICE: Farmandari
42311. Afshar,
Jomhuri Eslami Blvd 55011. 36071-3. POLICE: 66663 Traffic: 110, 22243. POST AND TELECOMMUNICATIONS: 22204. You can also call from one of the larger hotels. RAILWAY STATION: Information 30671. There are three express trains a week from Yazd to Kerman (five hours fifteen minutes), and to Tehran via Kashan (12 hours 20 minutes). RESTAURANTS: Atena
(marked in English) on the south side of Farrokhi Street. TAXI: Taxis are available into town from the bus terminal or train station at a reasonable charge of 1000 rials for a single passenger. Most rides in town are flat 100 rials, or even less. You can charter a taxi for a standard fare of 3000 rials per hour. TOURIST MAP: Available in Persian and English TOURIST OFFICE: Is in the same building as the Mirror Palace Museum (Muzeh Ghasr-e Ayeneh) in Ayatollah Kashani Street, 38046-8, 35077.
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