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| PRACTICAL INFORMATION ACCOMMODATION Hotels, range from the first-class to grimly spartan. Opulent or luxury hotels are mainly available in large towns and provincial capitals. However, cheap and cheerful establishments are found in nearly all towns throughout Iran. The newest hotels in cities such as Ahwaz, Esfahan, Mashhad, Shiraz, Tabriz, and Tehran bear the closest resemblance to their counterparts in Europe or America. All hotels are classified according to a star system: five stars for a luxury establishment with private bathrooms in every room, and one star for a place offering only simple accommodation, but with at least some bathroom or shower facilities and usually a few rooms with private bathrooms. More adventurous travelers may prefer the charm of old-fashioned establishments in interesting or scenic locations. In general, lodging houses (mosaferkhanehs) in smaller or remote towns offer the necessary comforts. There is also a grading system for mosaferkhanehs which classes them as superior, 1st class, or 2nd class. In the last of these categories you can expect almost unimaginable deprivations. Prices within each category are fixed locally by the tourist office or Islamic Guidance Department, and are consistent within each province but not throughout Iran. Hotel taxes (generally around 500 Rials) are also fixed locally. Air-conditioning is not unknown in most hotels; fax, postal, telex, and telephone services are available in almost all of them; and ever more hotel rooms are now being equipped with private bathrooms, small refrigerators and T sets. All these facilities plus foreign exchange facility and gift shops are usually located on the ground floor, mainly in five star hotels. Tehran's skyline is now dotted with the audacious and proud facades of a number of great competitors among world-famous hotels: Esteghlal (the previous Hilton), with three towers, Laleh (previous Intercontinental), and the Homa (previous Sheraton). However, rates are charged in foreign currency in most of the high-star hotels, so, for some, accommodation is not the bargain it used to be. Because there aren't always enough beds to go around you should book in early, preferably in the morning. If you turn up late at night in certain places at certain times of the year you will have trouble, like anywhere in the world; but if you front up in Mashhad at midnight at the peak of the pilgrimage season, someone would almost certainly take pity on you before you decide to go looking for a park bench. In some regions of northern Iran a sort of home stay (rented room) system exists which can be used by anyone seriously interested in the northern Iranian way of life. The arrangements for this sort of stay are usually made by a family member holding a sign by the roadside which indicates that there is a room to be rented for one night or more. The overnight charges do not include any meal. But arrangements can be made for one or two meals, often featuring regional specialties. Moreover, the Caspian coast has a more or less monopoly on such cheap and popular accommodation as Kapars. Holiday villages are nowhere so numerous as along the northern coast, especially at Bandar-e Anzali, Babolsar, Mahmud Abad, and Farah Abad. Another highly efficient network of tourist residences are the government sponsored mehmansaras (tourist inn or guest-house), often outside towns, many with character and charm. For advance reservations, especially during holiday periods, you can arrange through the Iranian Tourist Office, your hotel, or a travel agent. These guesthouses on the whole are of good quality and reasonably priced, and with regards to such services as restaurant, teahouse, bathroom, heating and cooling system, parking, clean and pleasant surroundings, they are often in a position to provide adequate facilities for the comfort of the guests. The first mehmansaras were opened in 1970. Architecturally, the buildings are sober and functional, with a maximum of two stories with a lawn and flowerbeds in front or surrounded by a garden. The furniture and facilities are good and suitable for an overnight or longer stay. They are scrupulously clean. The restaurant is unpretentious and the menu is not very varied, which is understandable for an establishment designed to "help out" motoring tourists. Without this network of inns, the trend toward individual tourism, which is now developing, would never have started. A good number of these mehmansaras are rated as three-star. New high-class provincial hotels are set in the kind of greenery, which is sometimes lacking in Tehran. The Persepolis tourism complex was once praised in the world press. Handy motels are being opened along main itineraries, at Takestan and Kermanshah, for example. In Esfahan, the Abbasi Mehmansara (a five-star hotel), built in the style of a 17th century caravansary, is world-famous and the standard-bearer of Iranian hotels because of its exceptional setting and its sumptuous decorations. At the other end of the spectrum, the tourist must sometimes be content, in villages where there are no mehmansaras, with very rustic establishments whose main attraction is their picturesque nature and the social habits of the local. It will be a memory of the Orient like those recounted by travelers of the past - of a relatively very recent past. When Iranian couples ask for a double room, they are always asked to provide proof that they are married. Since all guests have to show identity cards on checking in, there is no possibility of booking in anonymously as Mr and Mrs Smith. The rules may be relaxed for non-Muslim Westerners, but on the whole unmarried couples do not travel together and do not share rooms. May I see the room?
I asked for a room with a bath.
Do you have a room with a better view?
What's my room number?
Where can I park my car?
I would like to leave this in your safe.
Would you please wake me at.?
Can we have breakfast in our room?
AIRPORTS Tehran is the major gateway to Iran, but international flights operate to other big cities as well. There are thirty airports in active use, eight of which are suitable for international flights. The latter include Ahwaz, Bandar Abbas, Esfahan, Mashhad, Shiraz, Tabriz, the Tehran Mehrabad Airport, and Zahedan. Some of the airports were damaged during the war. Flights to Ahwaz, Orumieh, Kermanshah, and Sanandaj were resumed only in the fourth quarter of 1988, after several years. A major project for the second international airport of Tehran (Imam Khomeini International Airport) is under construction, which will handle about 30 million passengers a year when completed. Tehran United Bus Company runs airport buses to the city center. A taxi from each airport to the city center takes 30-40 minutes, or more depending on the traffic condition. ARRIVAL: Passengers arriving from abroad should hand over health certificates (distributed on the plane) to a health officer, and passports, visas and landing cards to immigrations officers, who stamp and return the document. Completed customs forms as well as foreign currency declaration forms are presented to the officials in the baggage claim area; you must retain the carbon copy until you leave the country. Female travelers must bring a long robe and a headscarf that will conform with Islamic hejab. Alcohol is strictly prohibited and may not be brought in by travelers. DEPARTURES: Be sure to reconfirm your reservation and arrive at the airport before check-in time. Iran Air, Aseman, and (the newly established) Mahan and Kish Air airlines have regular flights to the big cities and even too smaller towns in remote parts of Iran. The expansion of airports in recent years has provided the possibility of air communication between various cities on a wide and popular scale. The rates for internal flights are relatively low compared to those of other countries. The service and subsidiary services of Iran Air on internal flights are based on international standards. Tickets can be obtained either directly from sales bureaus or through private agencies, which are widely established in Tehran and other major cities. BANKS AND BANKING All domestic banks and insurance companies were nationalized in 1979. Iranian banks are generally open from 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., Saturday to Wednesday, and between 8:30 a.m. and noon or 12:30 p.m. on Thursdays. Branches inside hotels keep their own hours, and airports have a bank open whenever international flights arrive or depart. All banks are marked in both English and Farsi. Banks offering foreign exchange facilities nearly always have the sign EXCHANGE or FOREIGN EXCHANGE displayed at the entrance or somewhere else visible from the street. In Tehran, provincial capitals, and other major cities you may change your travelers' cheques in the central branches of Bank Melli Iran. If you have no alternative other than carrying a huge amount of Iranian Rial in your local tour, try to change a part of it into Rial. A few foreign banks do have representative offices in Tehran, but they are only there to cater to government and business customers and have no services for private travelers, even if you have an account at home with the bank concerned. Where is the nearest bank?
Where is the currency exchange?
I want to change some dollars/pounds.
What is the exchange rate?
I want to cash a traveler's cheque.
I want to open an account.
I want to deposit this in my account.
BOOK SHOPS AND LIBRARIES Iranians are not the world's most avid readers; traditionally the great works of Persian literature have been recited in public rather than read in private, and even today reading is regarded somewhat as a strange habit. Paper shortage, press censorship and import restrictions have also helped to ensure that Iran has very few book shops, but most towns have at least one, wit ha few shelves of books in English, one or two of which may actually be about Iran. In Tehran nearly all of the bookshops are concentrated in the district just opposite the Tehran University. Most of all the international hotels have also a small shop selling books and maps in English, and although prices are high by local standards, there is at least a guaranteed supply. BREAD Traditionally, bread was prepared and baked at home in special ovens. The practice is still carried on in villages. However, in towns and cities there are bakeries where traditional bread is baked. Each bakery specializes in a specific kind of bread and does not bake other kinds at the same time. Iranians like warm and fresh bread at every meal. There are four main types of bread: BARBARI: Made of white flour, thick, popular amongst Turkish-speaking people. LAVASH: Made of white flour, very thin, several of them would be enough for one person. SANGAK: Made of brown flour, baked in special ovens on hot pebbles; it is the most traditional bread in Iran. TAAFTUN: Made of white flour, thin, usually round or oval in shape. European types of bread and factory made bread are also available in Tehran and big cities.
CALENDAR As in all Muslim countries, the legal calendar dates back to the Hegira (622 AD). But in practice, the Latin calendar which starts from the migration of the Prophet Muhammad from Mecca to Medina. Religious celebrations follow the variations of lunar calendar, while official and administrative events are at fixed solar dates. The Iranian year starts on March 21st or 22nd, the first day of spring; it called Now Rouz and is the most joyous feast of the whole year. The first six months have 31 days, the five following ones 30. The twelfth month has 29 days (30 in leap years). Farvardin 31 days = 21 March-20 April. Ordibehesht 31 days = 21 April-21 May. Khordad 31 days = 22 May-21 June. Tir 31 days = 22 June-22 July. Mordad 31 days = 23 July-22 Aug. Shahrivar 31 days = 23 Aug-22 Sept. Mehr 30 days = 23 Sept-22 Oct. Aban 30 days = 23 Oct-21 Nov. Azar 30 days = 22 Nov-21 Dec. Day 30 days = 22 Dec-20 Jan. Bahman 30 days = 21 Jan-19 Feb. Esfand 20/30 days = 20 Feb-20 March. WEEKDAYS Saturday Shanbeh Sunday Yekshanbeh Monday Doshanbeh Tuesday Se-shanbeh Wednesday Chahaarshanbeh Thursday Panj-shanbeh Friday Jom'eh The first day of the Muslim calendar is not the actual day of the Prophet's migration but is the 16th of July 622 AD. This calendar is purely lunar. The year consists of twelve months of 30 or 29 days alternately, the last being 30 in some years. Therefore, it is either 354 or 355 days in length. It follows that the Muslim calendar begins earlier each year as compared to Iranian or Georgian calendars (10, 11, or 12 days). The Muslim months of the year are:
WESTERN CALENDAR: The months of the Western (Gregorian) calendar have entered Iran by way of French, and are pronounced more or less the same way. CULTURAL EVENTS & NOW ROUZ: The holidays listed above are not celebrated as much as might be expected, the religious holidays are times to go to the mosque, and offer few public celebrations of great interest to the non-Muslim, except perhaps for some of the mourning days. Muharram, the month of mourning, and especially Ramadan, the fasting month, can be rather trying periods for the non-Muslim visitor. For most Iranians, the main non-religious cultural event of the year is the extended period of celebrations marking the Iranian New Year or Now Rose. Even before the Achaemenian era, the coming of spring was celebrated on a large scale throughout Iran. Later on, the start of the Zoroastrian year was fixed at the vernal equinox. Nowadays the festivities are largely private, and Iranians traditionally return to their home villages and towns to celebrate the New Year with their relatives and friends, much as people in the West do for Christmas. Apart from the inevitable feasting and entertaining many ancient rituals still form part of Now Rouz, some of them to ward off the evil spirits and some of them essentially Zoroastrian in origin. CHAHAARSHANBEH SURI: Being the last Wednesday of the Iranian year, this is an important event in the celebrations leading up to Now Rouz. On its eve it is the age-old custom for Iranians to light small bonfires in the streets over which all the assembled guests, young or old, must mump to secure their good luck in the coming year. It is said that the flames purge the body of any evil spirits. Of course, the symbolism of this ritual is purely Zoroastrian in origin. SIZDAH BE-DAR: The 13th day of the Iranian New Year, it is traditional for people to leave their homes for the day, and urban Iranians often go for picnics in the country with their relatives and friends. It would be a perfect day for housebreakers, because whole streets are emptied, but perhaps even criminals think it's bad luck to stay behind. It is exceptionally difficult to find hotel accommodation throughout the New Year period (roughly for the whole of the second half of March) and most public transport is also booked up very heavily. See also: PUBLIC HOLIDAYS. CAMPING: Camping in Iran is still in its infancy. Several large cities have a stretch of land with collective tents rented upon which campers and individual caravan owners can stay. These are available in Tehran, Esfahan, and Tabriz and several other towns in the Caspian region. Elsewhere, campers should avoid pitching their tents just anywhere in order to avoid provoking excessive curiosity. They should ask for permission to camp near a hotel, a filling station or a local police headquarters. Is there a campsite near here?
Can we camp here?
Are there shopping facilities?
See also: ACCOMMODATION CAR HIRE The renting of a self-drive car is, like anywhere else, the most pleasant solution for the independent-minded tourist who dislikes being held down to a precise timetable. It can be a costly solution, especially in Iran where distances are very great. For details, consult many of the capital's travel agencies as well as those of large cities. However, some Taxi Service firms are specializing in renting out cars for short trips in urban areas. There remains to be found in Iran a car-hire organization adopted to long distance travel and geared for example to a tour of many mehmansaras scattered around the provinces and now easily accessible along good roads. Do you best to hire a car in which you will be driven, since the authorities are apt to take stern measures against those involved in car accidents, imprisoning them until the case is heard or settled through the required channels. There a good number of Telephone Taxi Agencies nowadays operating in most towns, with good drivers who can take the role of a guide as well. Ask your hotel to arrange a telephone taxi for you, when in need. I would like to hire a car.
How much does it cost per day/week?
Here is my driving license.
See also: CITY TRANSPORT. CAVIAR Iranian caviar is a product of the southern coast of the Caspian Sea, which has an ideal environment for sturgeon fish. Unpolluted and healthy nature, appropriate depth of water, temperate climate, traditional method of fishing together with precise processing by skilled and experienced caviar processors, altogether create the high quality of the famous Iranian caviar. Iranian caviar has an exquisite appearance, delicious taste and pleasant light gray, golden brown and sometimes in golden and black colors. Ninety percent of the world's caviar comes from three different Caspian Sea sturgeon fishes: beluga, asetra, and sevrouga. Caviar, this energetic and delicious foodstuff became famous as the "black pearl of the Caspian Sea." In towns, the best caviar can be purchased from Iran Fisheries Stores and some other food shops. North Iran is the best place to find the best caviar, known as the golden caviar. Caviar purchased at Mehrabad International Airport duty-free Shop can be taken abroad by the passengers. Where can I find some good caviar?
CIGARETTES, CIGARS, AND TOBACCO Tobacco is a state monopoly in Iran. Iranian cigarettes include brands with dark or light tobacco, with or without filter. Dozens of foreign brands are available at slightly higher or even competitive prices, either in hotels or shops and supermarkets. Foreign pipe tobacco, too, comes in a variety of cuts, from sweet to strong. On arrival in Iran, you are allowed to bring 100 cigarettes. If you are not a smoker, it would be a good idea to keep them for your old and new Iranian friends. Give me a packet of cigarettes, please
Have you got any matches, please?
I would like cigarettes without filter/filter tipped.
CITY TRANSPORT Millions of people are transported in Tehran and major provincial capitals every day. Most large cities, particularly Tehran, have a principal public transport company. In Tehran, it is called the Tehran United Bus Company. Fares are quite low for such public buses. Bus tickets can be purchased at most bus stops. Most buses are divided into two separate sections for men and women. Passengers have to get on through near and front doors, respectively. There is a large fleet of orange-colored shared taxis in Tehran and other towns with a minimum charge of not less than 100 Rials. Service (blue painted) taxis on fixed routes charge a standard 100 Rials or more per journey. The fares within Esfahan and Shiraz, too, are the same as those charged in Tehran. For information on "Telephone Taxi", see the "Car Hire" section. Shortage of public transport vehicles has been a persistent problem for the past couple of decades. Traffic experts concluded 30 years ago that in most cities public vehicles would not be adequate for transporting their fast growing populations. Apart from buses and taxis, there are a number of privately owned passenger carrying cars which act as part-time taxis, mainly in Tehran and provincial capitals. Construction of an underground railway known as the "metro" (subway) is already underway. The first part of the metro began operating in southern Tehran in 1989, which is mainly on the surface (and is used only during peak days of pilgrimage to the late Imam Khomeini's mausoleum). Where can I get a bus into the town?
How much is the fare to.?
Do I have to change buses?
Will you tell me when to get off?
CLIMATE & CLOTHING Broadly speaking, the further south you go the warmer it becomes. With the exception of the Caspian watershed, both sides of the Zagros range, and that of the Orumieh Lake basin, the country has probably in no part a yearly rainfall exceeding 33 to 36 centimeters, and throughout the greater part of central and southeastern Iran the yearly rainfall is probably under 156 centimeters. Along the shores of the Caspian the average precipitation is from 1,200 to 2,000 mm. Along the Persian Gulf regions, in spite of meager precipitation, in certain seasons, the climate is very humid. The regions along the mountainous parts of the country have milder summers and colder winters. In Tehran, in the central plateau, the climate can vary considerably from one end to the other. Central and southern Tehran in summer hot, dry and stuffy, but you only have to take a short bus ride up to the foothills of Damavand to cool down by several degrees. But it is not humid, and the evenings are cool and refreshing. Winters in the capital can be very chilly, extremely so at night, although any snow usually disappears by early March. Showers are frequent between November and mid-May, but rare in summer. The central plateau of Iran is marked by hot and dry summers and sporadic rainy winters. The Dasht-e Kavir, southeast of the capital, is harsh, inhospitable, and very, very hot in summer. Winters are not much better, and at night the temperature can fall well below zero. If any time of year can be called pleasant in this salty wasteland, it would have to be between October and December. The Dasht-e Lut to the south is, if anything, even worse; almost completely devoid of water from any direction and the last word in extreme aridity. In the far southeast of Iran, away from the Persian Gulf proper, temperatures are a little lower. Summers are hot and dry, winters mild and dry. Up in Sistan conditions are harsh: the hot season last from April to November with an average temperature of 50 degrees centigrade; winter is equally unpleasant with extreme cold until March. Down in the south of Baluchestan, along the coast of the Sea of Oman, the climate is similar to that of the Persian Gulf region, or even hotter, with strong winds in summer. There is very little rain throughout southeast Iran and frost would be a great novelty. Spring and summer are the ideal times to tour Iran, but summer or winter can be OK, so long as you do a little planning and take a few precautions. The northwest of the country is generally the coldest and among the rainiest parts of the country. The winters in Azarbaijan and Kurdestan can be severe: temperatures well below zero are very much the rule between December and February and sometimes fall as low as -20 degrees centigrade. Snow frequently remains until early spring, or even later in the mountains. Wind is undoubtedly the most unpleasant element especially from June in the east of the country. In Mashhad there are tales of wind from Central Asia lasting for one hundred and twenty days, which in the middle of summer blow at up to 200 km/h. In all seasons, sudden gusts cause whirlwinds and sandstorms. But the coastal regions have quite a different climate. The Caspian coast is damp all year round and provides a pleasant contrast with the dryness of plateaus, which are only a few hours away by road. But the temperatures are rarely excessive. Rain is frequent, vegetation is exuberant, as described elsewhere in this book, and the prevailing wind comes from the sea. The visitor should plan his/her wardrobe accordingly. In all seasons, always have handy two indispensable items: a woolen pullover and a pair of sunglasses. Altogether, the Iranian climate varies considerably from the rainy north and snowy northwest and west to the southern sunbelt, so take this into account as you pack your suitcase. In summer take lightweight and easily washed clothes of natural fabrics, a cardigan or pullover for the cooler nights, a pair of sunglasses and (only if your are male) a hat which will protect your face from the sun. In spring and autumn take a sensible compromise, according to the conditions in the places you are going to visit. For men, a suit will only be necessary if you are travelling on business or planning to mix in the higher reaches of Iranian society; a smart jacket is useful but rarely essential. An umbrella may be useful in the Caspian provinces in the rainy season. Tourists dress with a relative informality, though business visitors usually wear suits and ties for important meetings and banquets. By all means avoid ostentation. See also: FACTS AND FIGURES. The chart in the APPENDIX will help you to get a realistic impression of climate conditions in Iran: COMMUNICATIONS Several relatively small companies operate letter and parcel delivery systems domestically at costs higher than those charged by Post Company. The international company, DHL (Tel: 627988, 626623), has an office in Tehran which only accepts documents for foreign destinations. TELEPHONE: Mail and telephone services had for a long time been stepchildren of the authorities, resulting in a rather fanciful situation. However, in 1971, the first automatic telephone line was inaugurated between Shiraz and Tehran. The process of development in inter-city and long-distance telephone facilities has been going on continuously. You can make local calls from your hotel room or from coin-operated street telephones so designated. Long-distance and international calls must be connected by the operator. Fill out an order form at the service desk and take the call at your room or at the desk itself. TELEGRAPH: Telegraph services are offered in more than 1,800 offices throughout Iran. After the Revolution, S+5DX and TDM telegraph systems were established at various parts of the country. There is one principal telegram center in Tehran. The service lacks automatic systems and is very slow. TELEX: Telex service has 4,00 users in 11 cities, who are linked to two large and 10 small centers. A large new center is to raise the number of users to 10,000. The first of the two large centers operates electromechanically and has 700 telex lines. There are two other computerized centers with a combined total of 5,376 lines. Telex service can be obtained in most large and modern hotels. FAX: Facsimile service, most useful for transmitting documents in Persian, is available in some cities as well as the high-class hotels. I would like some stamps, please.
Where is a mailbox?
Where is the telephone?
Can you help me get this number?
Can I dial direct?
What was the cost of that call?
I would like to send a telegram.
See also: DIALING CODES COMPLAINTS Although Iran's tourist industry is not in its fancy, the formal procedures for complaints have yet to be developed. The whole issue is complicated by the oriental problem of "saving face": public criticism of any individual is deemed unjustifiably cruel. Quiet word with your guide will be far more effective than an open demonstration of dissatisfaction. And losing your temper is the worst possible reaction. To avoid unpleasant scenes with waiters or hotel employees, ask immediately to see the manager. If you fail to obtain on-the-spot satisfaction, you can refer the matter to the nearest police station. If necessary, you can also contact your embassy or consulate. That's not what I ordered.
The food is cold.
This is not fresh.
Would you ask the headwaiter to come over?
CONVERSION CHARTS It used to be that various reaches of the Iranian Empire would have their own system of weights and measures, but nowadays the metric system has permeated to almost every part of Iran. You may still come across the sir (about 75 grams) and the charak (10 sir) in some remote places. Gold and other precious metals are still measured by the mesghal, equal to 4.7 grams. The farsang (sometimes known in English as the parsang) is an old Iranian measure of distance, which always used to differ from place to place but is quoted in one recent reference book as measuring exactly 6.24 km. You may still hear the farsang used. Feet and nautical miles continue to be used in aeronautical and naval circles. To convert centimeters into inches, multiply by .39. To change inches into centimeters, multiply by 2.54. To convert centigrade into degrees Fahrenheit, multiply centigrade by 1.8 and add 32. To convert degrees Fahrenheit into centigrade, subtract 32 from Fahrenheit and divide by 18. COURTESIES A smile is your best good-will gesture in Iran. Be yourself, of course, but keep in mind some Iranian sensibilities. Physical contact offends the Iranian. Do not put your arm around an Iranian, for instance, in posing for a picture avoid public displays of affection, which scandalize older Iranians. Modesty in dress is also recommended. Modern Iranians show conservative tastes in clothing: nearly all businessmen wear dark suits and impeccable white shirts. Ladies should avoid wearing tight skirts. Don't be afraid to discuss politics, religion, or social problems; but refrain from polemics or disrespect to the country, its system or leaders. Try to maintain an oriental degree of patience, even if everything goes wrong. Don't blame your guide; it probably isn't his fault. See also: MEETING PEOPLE. CRIME AND THEFT Crime, of course, exists in Iran as in all countries, but official statistics show the incidence is very low in comparison with western societies. Cases of crime against foreign visitors are rare, though it is always wise to be wary of pickpockets and petty thieves. However, there are reports of tourists losing their valuables in crowded buses. If you have items of real value, keep them in the hotel save and obtain a receipt for them; it is a good idea to leave large amounts of money and even your passport there as well. Don't leave valuables visible in your parked car. Any loss or theft should be reported at once to the nearest police station. Keep a photocopy of your plane tickets and other personal document, with a note of the phone and telex numbers of your travel agent: it would come in useful in case of loss or theft. Common sense precautions go a long way to guarantee a safe journey: one would not really expect to recover a camera left behind on a park bench anywhere in the world; Iran is no exception to this rule - things lying around and worth of a few hundred dollars can mean a good find to many people. Violence against foreigners is virtually unheard of and it is probably safer to walk the streets of Tehran, Esfahan, Shiraz or Kerman and Yazd than in many places back home. See also: POLICE CUSTOMS, ENTRY AND EXIT REGULATIONS Visitors from Turkey and some other countries holding valid passports are given three-month visitors' visa on entry. But this is subject to change; so, please ask you travel agents for current requirements when booking. All other nationalities must obtain the necessary visas from one of the diplomatic missions of the Islamic Republic of Iran before entering the country. Applications are advised to submit their visa applications well in advance of their entry, leaving adequate time for Iranian authorities to consider their applications. Visas can be granted to foreign businessmen or experts with a valid invitation acceptable to Iranian authorities extended to them by their Iranian partners. If a foreign visitor wishes to stay longer than the period for which his visa is valid, he must obtain extension of visa or resident permit through the Foreign Citizens Affairs Department. Diplomats require diplomatic visas. Tour organizers and travel agents can provide all tourist visas, international and domestic flights, five-star hotel accommodation, de luxe coaches and guided sightseeing. They also ensure well-planned itineraries all arranged in advance. ARRIVAL: (see also AIRPORTS). Tourists are allowed to bring in all the paraphernalia they normally carry with them. Certain high-value items, however, will be entered in your passport by the Customs officials: Upon departure, if you are thinking of coming back to Iran on the same passport, insist that the Customs officials cancel these entries. Items written into passports cannot be sold and have to be shown on departure. In case of loss or theft you will need to have a public document proving that you have reported the incident. Firearms, alcoholic drinks, habit-forming drugs and pornographic material are banned and so are gold bullion and electronic items for commercial purposes. DEPARTURE: When leaving Iran, you are allowed to take with you all kinds of souvenirs without paying any export tax, provided they are not recognized antiques (it is always best to keep your sales receipts to show the Customs officers). You may export carpets (check on the spot), and there are certain arrangements for sending out newly purchased carpets (or even take one or two of them with you). Consult the dealer and your Iranian friends to take care of this after your departure. Exportation of gold and jeweleries is allowed only to a fair amount (personal belongings). At present and according to the latest regulations in force, every passenger leaving Iran is allowed to take one or more carpets with a total area of 12 square meters. Carpets should be brought to the Airport Customs at least one day before departure (but this is also subject to change, therefore check on the spot). CURRENCY RESTRICTIONS: It is forbidden to take more than 200,000 Iranian Rials into or out of the country. There is no limit to the amount of foreign currency you can bring into Iran, providing you declare amounts exceeding US $1,000 on arrival. You may even open "Foreign Currency Accounts" with Iranian banks. Foreign currencies up to the amount imported and declared may be exported. Every passport bearer is entitled to carry foreign currency worth 1,000 US dollars. Each accompanying person is entitled to take 500 US dollars. Passengers in possession of foreign currency in excess of the permissible amount should hold the Foreign Exchange Declaration or a Bank Transfer Certificate. For security reasons, you are recommended to sell your foreign currency to authorized banks (Melli, Tejarat, Sepah, Mellat, Saderat) or authorized exchange centers, and obtain a receipt for it. This receipt must be represented to the relevant officials at the time of departure. Every passenger, when departing the country, may in addition to personal belongings, carry various Iranian products, handicrafts, and manufactured goods without limitation as to their value, as well as a maximum of 150,000 rials of non-Iranian goods, provided that they are not intended for trade purposes. Every passenger may have one hand-woven carpet or two rugs of a maximum size of 12 square meters. Passengers may not take antiques, works of art, historic manuscripts, or different valuable coins or gems. Every passenger may, when departing the country, carry 150 grams of wrought gold without gems and up to 3 km of wrought silverware without gems. I have nothing to declare.
It is for my own use/a gift.
See also: AIRPORTS. DRIVING To take your car into Iran, or in order to drive in Iran you will need:
DRIVING REGULATIONS: As elsewhere in Europe or America, drive on the right, overtake (pass) on the left, yield right-of-way to all vehicles coming from the right (except on roundabouts/traffic circles) unless otherwise indicated. SPEED LIMITS: You can easily take 100 km as a unit of measurement since you can keep up fairly fast and steady speeds. Driving is much less tiring than on traffic-ridden European roads. But watch out for speed limits: 110km/h on motorways 80 km/h during the day 70 km/h at night in built-up areas. ROAD CONDITIONS: The road system has considerably improved during the past few years and roadwork is still continuing. When roads are wet, all speed limits are reduced by at least 10km/h. According to the latest officials statistics available, there are 151,488 km of various roads in Iran, of which nearly 1,500 km are freeways and main roads and about 1,500 km in the category of wide, first-class, ordinary and second class roads. The remaining length belongs to rural, paved, and dirt access roads. The motorways belong to the government, with insignificant tolls according to the vehicle size and distance traveled. Officials hope the private sector will be encouraged to invest in the future road development projects, under a new law passed in 1988. All amenities (restaurants, toilets, service station, etc.) are available along most motorways and national roads. PARKING: In the centers and crowded areas of large towns, some street parking is metered. There is a "limited traffic zone" in Tehran into which only certain vehicles are allowed to enter from 06:30 a.m. to 05:00 p.m. Fines for parking violations are heavy; in serious cases your car may be towed away or have a wheel clamp attached. Also, there are parking lots along all freeways and main roads, which are added to the main body of the road shoulder. BREAKDOWNS: In case of accident or breakdown, switch on the flashing warning lights, place a warning triangle 50 m behind your car, and call the Road Police (either through telephone on freeways or by asking the first truck which passes by, to call the Road Police in the nearest town or village). Although most large European, American, and Japanese car manufacturers are represented in Iranian cities, having some basic spare parts in the car will save you a lot of time and money. Most people agree that Iranian workmen, apart from being ingenious and willing to help foreigners whom they consider as their own guests, are skillful and conscientious. But this does not do away with the need for a final check-up especially in cases of complicated repairs. SIGNPOSTS: Signposting is very good, especially along major roads. Every two, five, or ten kilometers, rectangular white, green or dark blue signposts show in Persian and English, either the distance to the next built-up area or the distance to the next built-up area of the distance to the remotest large city. Since the signposts are bilingual, signpost watching is an excellent way of learning to read Persian letters and numerals. Nearly all cities (with the exception of Tehran, Esfahan, and Shiraz) are labyrinths within which a tourist has the greatest difficulty in finding the way out. To avoid this, and if you don't want to see the town, you can use the ring roads which you have been built around nearly all cities and towns in recent years. FUEL AND OIL: Filling stations are fairly frequent and are shown on the road and city maps. It is as well to take a jerrycan although you will probably not use it often. It is however a wise precaution to fill up in the last town before a long desert lap. Fuel is available in super (98 octane) and normal (90 octane). Lead-free fuel is also available, but don't expect to find it at every village pump. All grades of motor oil are on sale. Service station attendants expect to be tipped. At most filling stations, the needle on the dial shows the quantity supplied and not the price, which is incomparably lower than that in Western Europe.
Imperial Gallons Litre
US Gallons Litre
Driving license.
Car registration papers.
Full tank, please.
Regular/super/diesel/lead-free.
Check the oil/tires/battery, please.
I have had a breakdown.
See also: CAR HIRE and CITY TRANSPORT. ELECTRIC CURRENT In principle the voltage everywhere in Iran is 220 volts, 50 cycles. In practice the voltage drops significantly from time to time, though greatly improved recently. There were daily blackouts of 1 to 2 or even 3 hours in certain large cities until the very recent past. If you are a British, Canadian, or American tourist and you are bringing your own electric appliances, remember to buy a continental adapter plug before leaving home (round pins, not square), as the sockets here have two circular holes. Most hotels and restaurants have a backup generator powerful enough to provide emergency lighting for guests' rooms. However, don't forget to have some batteries, a torch, and even some candles in an easily accessible corner of your luggage. What is the voltage-110 or 220?
An adaptor plug.
A battery
See also: RADIO AND TELEVISION. EMBASSIES AND CONSULTANTS Contact your embassy or consulate when in trouble (loss of passport, problems with the police, serious accident). Opening times are available, so it is best to phone in advance. All embassies are in Tehran. There are consulates in other major cities: you can find about their addresses and phone numbers through your embassy in Tehran. Where is the.embassy/consulate?
I would like to phone the British/German embassy.
EMERGENCIES Many cities and towns have a special three-figure telephone number for emergencies, fire, police, ambulance, and paramedics. For real emergencies you can get assistance anywhere in those towns and cities. Emergency phone numbers in Tehran are: Accidents 107 Airport Information 91027-8 Ambulance 123 Domestic Local call 126 Fire brigade 125 International telephone 195 Iran Railways Information 5121 Police 129 Telephone information (for long distance call) 195 Telephone number inquiries 118 Time clock 119
Bus Terminals: East 871040-9 South 550047-8 West 941044-5 Tehran Telephone Taxi 840011-9 United Bus Company 799051-9 (Inter-city) Municipality 5131 Telephone Post 193 See also separate entries in this section such as EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES, HEALTH AND MEDICAL CARE, POLICE, etc. Although it is hoped that you will never need them, here are a few key sentences you might like to learn them in advance: Can you help me?
Call the police.
Get a doctor quickly.
I'm lost.
FLORA
AND FAUNA Most probably you won't see any of Iran's wild animals, but they are there if you look in the right place. Camels, mostly belonging to nomadic or seminomadic communities, can be seen in nearly all provinces, but mainly in Kerman, Sistan & Baluchestan, and Khorassan. The wide varieties of birds seen in the Iranian sky, regardless of domestic species, are either indigenous to Iran or migrant visitors: eagles and swans, pelicans and flamingoes, and owls, partridges, kestrels, falcons, snipe, pheasant and grouse. Add to this a wide range of Persian Gulf tropical fish, including sharks and swordfish, as well as porpoises; large shoals of sturgeon, salmon-trout and other fish as well as a species of seal unique to the Caspian Sea; and river trout, chub and carp. A great number of plants and trees grow in Iran, most of which are indigenous to the land. The northern slopes of the Alborz Mountains, up to a height of about 2,500 meters, are densely covered with a forest of broad-leaved deciduous trees, which forms the largest area of vegetation in Iran. However, the southern slopes are totally bare except for some scattered juniper trees. There are smaller, less dense forests of oak and juniper in the higher slopes of the central and the northwest Zagros, with palm trees growing in the southern coastal lowland. Most of the central plateau is sparsely vegetated, with little more than the odd tree, shrub or clump of herbs, although there are a few green areas in the oases, around the few lakes and on the sides of the valleys. See also: CLIMATE & CLOTHING. FOOD & DRINKS Standards of food hygiene are mostly satisfactory in all categories of eating houses, except for Iranian sausages, which can cause stomach problems. In general most Iranian cooking is healthy and nutritious, and you should not have much problem in keeping to a balanced diet. At street stalls it is advisable only to eat hot food that you have watched being cooked. All provinces of Iran have their own dishes and specialties. However, the national dish is rice prepared in several special ways and served in vast helpings with almost every main dish, and very few of the main dishes would be considered complete without it. Iranian rice from the rainy plains of Mazandaran and Guilan is considered by many - not only Iranians - to be one of the world's best, but much of the rice sold in the country today is imported. Chelo is rice prepared in several stages over 24 hours, boiled and steamed and served separately, while polo is rice cooked with the other ingredients. Rice in general is berenj. The rice is always fluffy and tender, never sticky and soggy. Often the cook will steam chelo rice with yoghurt or an egg yolk (or a thin layer of lavash bread) to make a crunchy golden crust (tah dig) at the bottom of the pan, which is broken up and served on top of the rest of the rice. Saffron is very frequently used to flavor and color rice. Soft drinks are sold in bottles. Tea served in see-through glasses (never with milk) is an integral part of hospitality in Iran. Coffee is not widely available and is usually expensive. Fruits are served almost at all kinds of ceremonies and occasions. Second to tea, seasonal fruits are anther integral part of hospitality. Each province has its own specialty for making sweets, biscuits and candies. Sweets made of dates, rice and many other fruits and substances are very common in Iran and people appreciate good sweets and tourists during their stay in Iran would develop a taste for quality of sweets and would soon recognize the origin of each one. Traditionally Iranians drink cold water with their meals. The following is a brief description of a number of the most delicious and the best-known Iranian foods, which you might want to try while touring in Iran: Abgusht, Lamb Stew Ab-e gusht ra ziad kon, is what you might hear the hostess telling her cook when you arrive at someone's house unexpectedly. This phrase, which means increase the water of Abgusht, is a very popular joke among Iranians. Abgusht is supposed to be a very flexible meal, one, which can easily be expanded when unexpected guests arrive for dinner. Abgusht, which in Persian means the water of the meat, is one of the most popular dishes in Iran. It is supposedly a poor man's meal, but in fact it is a popular dish with all housewives. It is said that Azarbaijani housewife knows how to prepare the best Abgusht. In that part of the country, Abgusht is cooked in a crock for half a day on a very low grill over hot ashes. The secret of good Abgusht is the right seasoning and slow cooking. Basic Abgusht can be varied in several ways. Some people prefer to make it watery, serving the broth as soup and the meat and the rest of the ingredients separately. Others use less water and let it cook until a very thick broth remains. The following is a short listing of the most delicious Abgushts: Abgusht, lamb stew hash, Abugusht-e Bademjan, lamb stew with eggplant, Abgusht-e Gholveh, sauteed lamb kidneys, Abgusht-e Lubia Ghermez, lamb stew with kidney beans. Ash, an Iranian Soup Ash is a very popular dish among Iranians. In the good old days, Iranians were famous for the varieties of ashes they could prepare. There are many stories connected with the preparation of ash and the origin of this dish. The Persian word for cook is ash-paz, literally maker of the soup. The word kitchen in Persian is ash-paz-khaneh that is the house of the cook. This should indicate the importance of the word ash and the role that soup used to play in the lives of the ancient Iranians. Ash is basically a very simple dish. The varieties of ash depend on geographic location and the available ingredients. It can be a very simple meal, prepared inexpensively, or it can be a rich meal if one knows how to spice it properly. Iranians again use their own original spicing for this basically simple meal, but with a touch of true artistry they create a meal as simple yet as exotic as the poetry of Omar Khayyam and as colorful and rich as the miniature paintings of master painters like Behzad.
The following is a basic list of various ashes prepared all over Iran: Ash-e Anar, Pomegranate Soup Ash-e Mast, Hot Yogurt Soup Ash-e Reshteh, Noodle Soup Ash-e Torsh, Dried Fruit Soup Ash-e Gandom, Wheat Soup Ash-e Sholeh Ghalamkar Ash-e Sack Ash-e Kashk, Dried Whey Soup Ash-e Mash, Chickling Vetch Soup Chelo Kabab, Rice with Broiled Lamb Chelo kabab is the queen of all kababs and is a specialty of Iran. Most foreign tourists know that what shish kabab is, and many of them have already tried it either in Middle Eastern restaurants or have made it themselves at home. But be sure you have never tasted chelo kabab unless you have visited Iran. Chelo kabab is derived from two words: chelo, meaning cooked rice, and kabab, meaning broiled meat or fowl. To prepare the real chelo kabab one should use fillet or lamb. But since that part of the lamb is hard to obtain in some countries, leg of lamb or sometimes shoulder of lamb are good substitutes. The secret of good and tasty chelo kabab lies in marinating of the meat. The meat should be properly marinated in onion juice and sometimes in yogurt for a day or two. There is an old Iranian tradition as to how one should eat chelo kabab. The proper way of serving chelo kabab is to put plenty of chelo in a plate, make a small hole in the center of it, put an egg yolk in it, then plenty of butter, the broiled kabab, and a teaspoon or two of sumac over it. Mix this ingredient well and start eating. This description and this combination, certainly, sound very odd, but it is extremely delicious and quite different in taste. Some other meat and fowl dishes are: Jujeh Kabab, broiled chicken Kabab-e Morgh, roasted chicken Kotlet-e Kubideh, Iranian hamburger Kufteh Gusht, Iranian meat loaf Luleh Kabab, kabab with ground lamb Shami, Tehrani hamburger Shish Kabab, broiled lamb on the skewer Tas Kabab, baked lamb Desserts Since Iranians serve rice as a main dish and since most of the sauce served with it are very filling, the Iranian housewife tries to serve light desserts. If you ever eat at an Iranian home, you will be served fresh fruits, when they are in season, or dried fruits and compote in winter. Iranians are very fond of fruit. When fruits are in season they will eat them on any possible occasion. An Iranian housewife will serve fruit at lunch, tea, or dinner, very often she will serve a bowl of cold fresh fruits: peaches, cherries, strawberries, grapes, melons, oranges, and cucumbers. In Iran, are grown very delicious, delicate cucumbers which are served after dinner or at tea time, it is customary for the hostess to peel the fruit and pass it to the guests. However, on special feast days such as Now Ruz or at weddings and other special occasions, Iranians use their imagination to create exotic desserts such as Baghlava (Baklava). Halva (Sweet Dessert), and many other complicated cookies and cakes. Dolmeh Barg, Stuffed Grape Leaves Dolmeh, the Iran and stuffed, usually stands for any kind of vegetable and fruit stuffed with meat and rice. Dolmeh Barg, literally meaning stuffed leaves, is the name for stuffed grape leaves. This is a real favorite of the Middle Eastern nations. It is difficult to trace the origin of this dish. Whether it originated in the vine-growing regions of the Caucasus or in the Middle East is not known for sure. Whatever its origin, it is the favorite dish of Turkmans, Tajiks, Uzbeks, Azarbaijaniz, Armenians, Turks, Greeks, Arabs, and the Iranians. There are many ways of preparing dolmeh. It can be served cold or warm. When served warm, it is preferred to be stuffed with meat and vegetables. When served cold, it is normally stuffed with rice and currants. However, when dolmeh is stuffed with meat and vegetables, it tastes equally good when served cold. Dolmeh makes excellent hors d'ouvres for cocktails. It can be prepared a few days in advance, stored in the refrigerator, and cooked the day it is going to be served. As will be found here, dolmeh makes an excellent topic for conversation at cocktail parties and dinners. Kinds of dolmeh are: Dolmeh Bademjan, Stuffed Eggplants Dolmeh Barg, Stuffed Grape Leaves Dolmeh Beh, Stuffed Quince Dolmeh Felfel Sabz va Gojeh Farangi, Stuffed Green Pepper and Tomatoes Dolmeh Kadu, Stuffed Squash Dolmeh Kalan, Stuffed Cabbage leaves Dolmeh Sib, Stuffed Apples Yalanchi Dolmeh, Rice Stuffed Grape Leaves
Khoresh, Sauces for Pilafs Khoresh in Persian stands for a stewy type of sauce which is usually prepared with meat or fowl combined with fresh or dried vegetables, fresh or dried fruit, and sometimes nuts and cereals. Persians almost always eat rice with khoresh. Usually, a plate full of white fluffy rice is served topped with khoresh. When rice is served with khoresh it is called chelo khoresh. Chelo khoresh is a favorite of all Iranians, and in every Iranian house you can see it served at least once a day. Because of the popularity of chelo khoresh, the Iranian housewife tries to prepare it with various types of khoresh. In the springtime when fresh vegetables are available, the housewife uses her ingenuity in combining such exotic vegetables as rhubarb, eggplants, spinach, mushrooms, etc, with various kinds of meat or fowl. In summer, she takes advantage of the fresh fruit available in the market, and prepares the most delicately flavored sauce from fresh peaches, green plums, or sour cherries combined with chicken or meat. In the fall, she prepares the most exquisitely flavored sauce from quinces, tart apples, and pumpkins, combined with meat or fowl. During the winter when fresh vegetables and fruits become scarce, she makes the most of the nuts and the dried fruits available. She uses the seasoning techniques taught by her ancestors and produces khoresh using wild duck with pomegranates and walnuts or lamb and prunes seasoned with cinnamon. Some of the most popular khoreshes are: Khoresh-e Alu: prune sauce Khoresh-e Bademjan: eggplant sauce Khoresh-e Baghali: lima bean sauce Khoresh-e Beh: quince sauce Khoresh-e Esfanaj: spinach sauce Khoresh-e Fesenjan: chicken with pomegranate s | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
