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Hamadan older than history
Hamadan province
Hamadan province is located in the western part of the country with an area
of more than 19000 square kilometers. It is bounded on the north by the
province of Zanjan, on the south by lorestan, on the east by the central
province and on the west by Kermanshahan and Kurdistan. Hamadan is a
beautiful highland covered with huge mountains and green slopes, farmlands,
pastures, snow-capped peaks and fertile valleys under a blue sky. The highest
and the most famous peak in Hamadan is Alvand with a height of 3574 meters
and a legendary and historical fame no less than that of Damavand. Hamadan
is a cold province with long winters where there is snow in the mountains
for eight months of the year. This gives the province very mild summers and
a green natural setting.
Based on the latest statistical surveys the population of Hamadan province
is about 1,650,000 people of various ethnic origins with their own special
cultures and traditions. Almost all the population is muslim. In different
areas they speak Persian, Turkish, Lori, Laki and Kurdish, however, all of
them understand and speak Persian.
The population of Hamadan province is distributed in the 6 cities of Hamadan
(capital of the province), Malayer, Nahavand, Twiserkan, Kabudarahang and
Assadabad as well as their various districts and villages. The occupation of
city dwellers is either administrative or industrial services and in other
parts of the province agriculture constitutes the people's main business.
The capital city of the province is linked, by main roads, to Ghazvin,
Tehran, kermanshahan (and the western parts of the country), Malayer,
Borujerd (and the southern areas) and Saveh (and the country's centrnl
regions). Let's begin the visit to Hamadan province from the historical city
of Hamadan.
Hamadan in the course of history
Hamadan is one of the oldest cities of not only Iran but of the world. Its
historical origins date back to several centuries before Christ. Hamadan,
which was the summer capital of the Median and Achaemenid was then called
Ekbatan or Hegmataneh; meaning a place of assembly. Hamadan is one of the
cradles of Oriental civilization with legendary background. According to
historical records, there was once a castle in this city by the name of Haft
Hessar (Seven Walls) which had a thousand rooms and its grandeur equalled
that of the Babylon Tower.
All the nations living around Iran coveted the prominent natural position of
Hamadan from the times immemorial until recent centuries; and have invaded
the city several times. First, the Assyrians destroyed Hamadan. It was ruined
again and again during the invasion of Mongols and Tamerlane. Finally, in the
recent centuries the Ottomans attacked the city several times; but Hamadan
heroically stood against the enemies and courageously withstood all the
losses it had sustained.
Hamadan is the homeland of great scholars and men ot letters like Elnaighozat,
Khajeh Rashidoddin Fazlollah, Adham Hamadani, Baba Taher Orian and Mirzadeh
Eshghi; and the tombs of Avicenna and Baba Taher are located in this city.
Hamadan has preserved its importance in the post-Islamic period.
Hamadan today
The Hamadan of today is located In a distance of 336 kilometers from Tehran
on the slopes of Mount Alvand. The city is stretched around a star-shaped
square named after Imam Khomeini (PBUH). Out of this square which has
preserved its old and beautiful style of architecture, six avenues diverge
from the angles of the star. Hamadan has been developed and renovated to a
great extent in recent years and gradually this has changed the city's old
fabric.
There are still old neighbourhoods with nostalgic names in Hamadan besides
its large modern streets and beautiful parks.
The Sights of Hamadan
Hamadan is a city of mild climate. Its natural beauty including that of Mount
Alvand and its beautiful peak as well as the scenery of Morad Baig and
Abbassabad valleys will always be remembered by visitors. In this ancient
city remains have been unearthed in archaeological excavations of Median and
Achaemenid castles, fortresses and cities on the hills of Hegmataneh and
Mossalla. The objects unearthed in those sites, like tablets, gold and silver
plates, and tools are now in great museums. Yet, there are plenty of other
historical monuments and places to be visited by everybody. These include:
The Stone Lion
The Stony Lion or the stone lion is a big Parthian monument that was
originally made like a lion. It is believed that once there was a counterpart
for this monument.
The Tomb of Avicenna
The tomb of the great Iranian scientist,
Avicenna, is in Hamadan with a
building and dome built in 1954. The design of the dome is inspired by the
shape of Ghabous Voshmgir Tower. There is a library with a number of
manuscripts in this building. In the courtyard of the building, there is a
tomb belonging to the late Qajar period poet and song writer Abolghassem Aref.
The Tomb of Baba Taher
The tomb of the writer of many romantic couplets, Baba Taher, is in Hamadan.
The building of the great mystic's tomb has been built in a beautiful park
northwest of Hamadan in recent years.
The Holy Shrines
The devotedly faithful people of Hamadan have always paid respectful
attention to holy shrines. There are several mosques, mausoleums and shrines
in Hamadan including Imamzadeh Farzandi-All, Imamzadeh Esmaell, lmamzadeh
Abdullah, the Jami' Mosque and Khaneghah.
Ganj Nameh (A Historical Relief)
In the city's suburb, at the end of the beautiful Abbasabad valley, there
are two inscriptions on the rocks of Mount Alvand. One of them had been
carved at the time of king Darius and the others at the time of King
Khashayarsha, and their contents praise God, Ahura Mazda, list the lineage
of the monarchs and pray for their country's safety.
The Alavid Dome
This is the most important Islamic monument in Hamadan. It is a square
building of late SeIjuk period with a masterly stucco interior. This building
has a crypt containing the tombss of two members of the Alavid family.
Ghorban Tower
It is a 12 sided plain brick building with a pyramid shaped dome. It is
located in the eastern part of the city; and there is a tomb in its crypt.
The Tomb of Esther and Mordecai
These are the tombs of two Jewish people whose names appear in the Old
Testament. The building is made with bricks and stone on the graves of
Khashayarsh's wife (Esther) and her uncle (Mordecai). There are antique
wooden boxes and manuscripts of the Old Testament inside the building.
Caves
The mountatinous position of Hamadan has led to the formation of
many wonder ful and beautiful caves of which according to specialists the
Alisadr Cave is one of the most astonishing. There are few caves Iike this
anywhere else across the world. Local people sometimes call it Alisadr or
Alisad. Located 60 kilometers north of Hamadan, Alisadr is a vast cave that
contains a lake and a labyrinth of chambers along 6which one can sail for
tens of kilometers. The clear water of the lake is several meters deep and
the cave's walls, floor, and ceiling are covered with an abundance of
marvellous stalactites and stalagmites and various natural stones that have
taken the shape of various animals, objects and islands. No living being
lives in this cave and its waters because there is no natural light. However,
there is power supply in the cave for lighting. In some of the chambers the
distance between the floor and ceiling of the cave reaches 40 meters, but
the average height of the cave is about 8 meters. There are boating services
with guides and catering facilities for those who wish to visit the cave.
Wildlife
Hamadan Province has two protected environmental sites, one in the west by
the name of Assadabad and another, located east of Malayer, named Lashkar.
The Iatter hosts antelope, ibex, ram, ewe ar leopard. In the high plain of
Assadabad lives the area's famous ewe bird. Among the other forms of wildlife
in this area are various types of birds of prey like Delijeh falcon, hawk,
falcon, sparrow hawk and Balaban falcon as well as various migratory birds
like geese, ducks, partridge and yellow partridge. Antelope and ibex are
abundantly found in the highlands of this province. The latter has a pair of
sword-like horns as long as 140 centimeters with a beard and a dark strap
around the low neck and chest which adds beauty to the animal. The region's
antelope and ibex sometimes weigh up to 60 kilograms and live as long as 14
years. They live in rough rocky areas where they move quite easiIy.
Staying in Hamadan
There is a regular and daily bus service from Tehran's bus terminal to
Hamadan. There are also three flights to Hamadan every week. Hamadan has
two hotels (Bu Ali and Yas) and several guest houses.
The provincial Department of Culture and Islamic Guidance in Hamadan will
put more information at the visitors' disposal.
Souvenirs from Hamadan
Hamadan has always been well known for handicrafts like leather and ceramic
works; as well as for its beautiful carpets. The art of carpet weaving is so
significant in Hamadan that the Iranian Carpet Company has established an
office there. The carpets and rugs of Hamadan are famous for their quality,
beautiful designs and colors.
The art of ceramics is centered in the village of Lalejin in the vicinity of
Hamadan. There are several ceramic workshops and numerous skilful artists
that create the most beautiful and colourful ceramic ware in great numbers.
Visiting one of these workshops can be one of the best parts of a tour to
Hamadan.
The main cities of Hamadan province
Malayer
The highland city of Malayer is located about 90 kilometers southeast of
Hamadan with mild temperature. Although it is a very old city, yet the
present city which was formerly called Dowlatabad was built in the early
Qajar period. It is a city significant from the commercial point of view as
it is located on the way to Khuzestan. There are some caves like Darreh
Farakh and Sardkouh as well as the remains of some old fortresses around this
city. Malayer has urban and medical facilities as well as guest houses and
parks.
Nahavand
Located 150 kilometers south of Hamadan, Nahavand is an ancient and
historical city. It was the site of the last war between the Iranian Sassanid
troops and the Arab muslim warriors. There are still some remains of the
ancient Nahavand on the slopes of a hill. Nahavand had been one of the
ancient centres of the pre-Aryan tribes. The precious objects unearthed in
Gian Hill region reveal that pre-historic civilized people with progressive
arts and culture lived in this region. Meanwhile, Achaemenid and Sassanian
remains have been found in Gara Chogha village in the vicinity of Nahavand.
This city has old neighbourhoods with urban establishments to meet the
people's requirements. It is a cold cit y with agricultural products like
grains, fruits and famous handicrafts like rugs.
Twiserkan
Twiserkan, located about 100 kilometers south of Hamadan, is the outcome of
the merger of three old villages, namely Twi, Serkan and Meshkan. However,
it was formerly called Roudlar. The latter was ruined in the invasion of
Mongols and its people fled to those three villages. The ancient hills of
Baba Kamal, Roudlar, Shahrestaneh, the remains of a Sassanid city in
Velashjerd, the Seljuk Dome named after prophet Heighoogh, the Safavid
Building of Sheikh Ah Khani School and the Qajar period indoor bazar, are all
indicative of Twiserkan's historical background.
Kabudarahang
Located 50 kilometers north of Hamadan, Kabudarahang is a water-rich
agricultural zone whose development started a few years ago.
Assadabad
This highland city was the birth place of the militant clergy Seyed
Jamaleddin Assadabadi who was an advocate of the Islamic solidarity movement.
Assadabad is the site of Iran's telecommunications satellite establishments.
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